Imagined Homeland*

By Raza Rumi
It irks me when I hear simplistic platitudes on Pakistani society, state or people. The heterogeneity of Pakistan is by itself an anthropologist’s dream, a planners’ headache and a sociologist’s challenge. Despite the sixty-one years of drumming the uniform nationalism mantra, Pakistan’s regions and their peoples refuse to toe the line sponsored by the official textbook masters. This is why one minute there is a delightful speech on being a Pakistani and the other minute caste, tribe or ethnicity raise their discrete heads and the linear formulae dissolve into thin air.

Recently I was in Karachi and discovered that the drawing room chattering there was vastly different from that of Lahore’s. The immediate urban crises of the Sindhi capital overshadow discussions that the Punjabi heartland loves to indulge in. The war mongering that has been a recent pastime on TV channels and in influential quarters of Lahore, is looked at with suspicion and, dare I say, contempt by many Karachi wallahs. It was refreshing to be reminded that, much in line with South Asian history, Pakistan is a diverse, multifarious place. That this country cannot be boxed easily and therefore appointed labels dissipate easily.

Taking advantage of my Karachi trip and also of a special invitation on my blog from the town of Bhitshah in Sindh, I ventured after a long time into the remote interior of the Sindh province. Bhitshah is not too far from Karachi but thanks to my middle-aged chauffer Sadru with a hyper-active imagination, I managed to see quite a bit of the countryside. Despite my clear advice on the destination – B-h-i-t-s-h-a-h – Sadru, drove me almost to Sehwan, the small town where the great mystic Lal Shahbaz Qalandar is buried. We crossed Jamshoro, almost a university town, and many other milestones until I could see Sehwan everywhere and Bhitshah nowhere on the road-signs. That’s when we realised that we had lost our way. We then had to turn back even as Sadru, after going through the ritual of a half-hearted apology, wryly wondered if my calling was for Lal Shahbaz instead.

Could it be? Well, one has to be a member of the Mystics’ Society Incorporated to understand such signs. But irrespective of my bonding with such a mysterious world, there’s no doubt that even the most rational of readers would find the landscape of Sindh a tad mystical. The sense of space, the emptiness waiting to be filled in and the quaint air could never go unnoticed. The songs of love and union, of separation and longing are so deeply embedded in the cultural moorings of the Sindhi heartland and only after listening to them would you begin to appreciate why Sindh is called the land of the mystics.

But mysticism apart, it was the iconographic presence of Benazir Bhutto or shall I say the Bhuttos, that was hard to miss. Who knows how popular Benazir would have been today if she had lived, but her tragic assassination has surely made her a Sindhi legend like Marvi, Sassi and Bakhtawar.

After these not too unpleasant meanderings, we reached Bhitshah and a long cherished wish of mine finally came true. My host, a young film-maker by vocation and a gaddi nasheen prodigy by birth, took me around the town. The tomb of Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai (1689-1752) constitutes the life of this little place. Everything is centered on it, almost by design. There were people who had come from distant places to spend a day or two at the shrine. The mood was far from sombre. It was like being in the midst of a public festival with lots of chatter, action and devotional music of outstanding quality. I lost myself in the rhythm of the dergah leaving poor Sadru a little nonplussed at my affinity for the saint, his poetry and a more than charitable view of the Sindh province. Soon the interaction between Sadru and myself turned a little unreal by Pakistani standards as we had to shed prejudice and engage at a purely humanistic level.

When we sat in the courtyard, sharing a platter of langar pallau , Sadru whispered that this was a relatively empty place as Sindhis were now more inclined to make a pilgrimage to Garhi Khuda Bux, the burial place of the Bhuttos, rather than the Sufi shrines. As he laid out his reasons, Sadru broke down in tears and chanted the Benazir-innocence spiel. A moustached man in his late forties crying for a slain leader even after a year of the tragedy was not an ordinary sight. I was touched.

Later, as we hunted for ajraks and other memorabilia, I was a little overwhelmed by the posters and pictures of BB being sold along with the spiritual souveniours such as chadors, tabrauk and roses for the shrine. As a typical tourist, I took pictures only to reprimand myself later that certain sights are to be felt and imbibed, not ‘captured’.

The return to Lahore via Karachi allowed me to traverse many worlds: the posh Karachi housing stocks, the slum where I dropped Sadru, the cultivated, antiseptic, inefficient Karachi airport and, of course, the Lahori universe, my home.

While driving back to my house, we stopped at the petrol pump and the long queue prompted the taxi driver to complain how Zardari government had caused the shortages-havoc in Lahore, the capital of the Punjab; and how intolerable he was! That made me a little squeamish but it was nothing. The icing on the cake was when the next day my son, who turned seven last week, arrived from school and shared a little secret. His best friend had told him the name of the real murderer of Benazir Bhutto; and guess who it was! Well, it cannot be printed as TFT is a responsible publication. But it was the name, initials of which encapsulate the range of the English alphabet. The worst kept rumour, indeed!

So, here I am trying to make sense of it all. But I cannot.

* First published in The Friday Times

PAKISTAN/

11 Comments

Filed under Iran, Pakistan, Sindh, Society, Sufism, Travel

11 responses to “Imagined Homeland*

  1. oh I have given up on it. Making sense that is.

  2. Pingback: Imagined Homeland* | All Viral Emails

  3. Dastagir

    No human being is perfect – yet any nation must respect, love and preserve its finest !

    Punjab started taking its revenge out on Jinnah’s idea. Ayub Khan to Zia-ul-Haq ! Fact of the matter is., that Punjab was PUSHED to join into the Pakistan-band-wagon at the last moment. Their heart was NEVER in it. They were happy with the Muslim-Sikh-Hindu arrangement. Sir. Sikandar Hyat Khan represented THE true sentiment of Punjab. It was bulldozed in the charged atmosphere of 1947. A similar situation developed in NWFP (Dr Khan Sahib / Khan Abdul Gaffar Khan).

    Zia-ul-Haq hit the last nail on the very idea of Jinnah’s Pakistan (out of his hatred for Z.A. Bhutto).

    Z.A. Bhutto saved what remained (post Dec 1971). East+West Pakistan could never have been together… i wish they departed decently… but decency doesnt come naturally when one is in power.

    Nawaz Sharif / Army / Bureaucracy / ISI … hated Benazir for being Bhutto’s daughter ! Benazir could have become another Mujib-ur-Rehman if she took the banner of SINDHU DESH ! India would have supported it… but she laid her life for the IDEA of Jinnah’s Pakistan.

    Now Benazir is a SAINT of Sind. A politician is forgotten after a century… Saints live on eternally. Inspite of a million flaws that she may have… Benazir was the best species we could produce.

    AFSOS…dar-afsos… Qadr nahin kee. Benazir was Pakistan’s last hope. Now it is the game of DOMINOS… I see no hope… after Benazir. They have tried all experiments in the laboratory… now it has reached the stage where chemicals are boiling… and the whole laboratory may burst in oe big BANG.

  4. Loved your piece! Thank you for writing that.

    I do have to say I can’t believe you passed on Sehwan after getting so close…

  5. nikita

    is it just me who’s feeling this way or has dastagir actually written utter bosh?

  6. lal

    What does that last paragraph mean?Azif Zardari?Who really killed bhutto?

  7. iFaqeer: many thanks for the compliment. Yes, it is strange and this, in my warped sense of reality, means that I will be there soon..:)

    Ghulam ji &Nikita: thanks for your comment – things are not all that bleak in Pakistan. it is a fast changing country and its dynamism is alive. The problem is how to get over the short term crises that are troubling us.

    Lal: The name should not be printed in the interest of [new]media responsibility.

  8. “Mystics’ Society Incorporated ”

    I love this term. Sounds like a good business idea 😛

    Loved the piece. Brilliant as always!

  9. Am glad to note that Pakistanis are steadily refusing to get boxed in by the the idea of a “linear,colorless,uniformly awami suit wearing” Pakistan,propogated so ardently by the ‘good’ General.
    Any chance of sharing some pictures from your recent trip to Sindh?

  10. Zar-wallay(moneyed) Charlatans Trading in the graveyard of Martyrs.

    Benazir Bint Bhutto is to Hind and Sind what Hussain Ibn Ali is to Karbala.
    Shaheed son of Shaheed, Dying on the Cross

    well said and written.
    Pakistan is the country of MTV and Radio shariah FM

    http://dilnawazinqalabi.blogspot.com/2008/11/war-on-terror-in-tribal-areasradio.html

  11. Thanks for all the comments here..
    cheers
    RR